Diversity in Fashion: The Missteps of Companies in Representation
Written on
Chapter 1: The Illusion of Diversity in Advertising
The fashion world is often dominated by a homogeneous portrayal of beauty, predominantly favoring whiteness. Despite recent attempts by some brands to champion diversity, many executives still hesitate to hire Black models, often opting for artificial solutions instead. A notable example is Levi, a brand rooted in denim since 1873, which recently showcased a Black "model" generated through artificial intelligence in an advertisement. This move seemed to echo its historical ties to exclusionary practices, suggesting a return to its past of underrepresenting people of color.
In essence, substituting real Black models with AI fails to capture the true essence of diversity. It creates a superficial impression of inclusivity without addressing the deeper societal implications of representation in fashion. Hiring Black models is crucial, especially in an industry that frequently aligns beauty with whiteness. Research indicates that a staggering 78% of models in fashion advertisements are White, underscoring the industry's struggle to embrace the idea that Black individuals and people of color deserve representation in marketing campaigns.
Amanda Mull's assertion in The Atlantic that racism and classism are "finally out of style" appears overly optimistic, as the fashion industry still largely favors white models and designers. Levi's use of AI to create the illusion of diversity exemplifies the resistance to genuine change within the industry.
In the video "Diversity, equity, and inclusion in AI: solved problem?", experts discuss the implications of using AI for representation, questioning whether this truly addresses the need for genuine diversity in fashion.
Section 1.1: The Paradox of AI Supermodels
It’s particularly ironic that the first AI supermodel, Shudu, was designed as a Black woman by a White creator, raising ethical concerns about who profits from such representations. Given the United States' troubling history of racial exploitation, it is fundamentally problematic for a White individual to benefit financially from a digitally created Black figure. Shudu's existence as an AI entity only amplifies the exploitative nature of this practice, as hiring her effectively denies real Black women job opportunities in a space where they are already marginalized.
This situation can be viewed as a modern form of digital blackface, where White individuals gain social and economic advantages from representations of Black culture while actively excluding Black models from these opportunities.
Subsection 1.1.1: Disclaimers in Advertising
Just as films often include disclaimers about animal welfare, perhaps advertisements featuring AI models should also carry a warning. For instance, Levi could include a note stating, "No actual Black individuals were involved in this advertisement," to clarify the nature of their portrayal. Despite claims of using AI models to "increase diversity," many Black models argue that these initiatives are regressive and stress the importance of hiring real individuals to foster true change.
Diversity should encompass the inclusion of people from various racial, ethnic, and cultural backgrounds, rather than merely simulating such inclusion through digital means.
Section 1.2: Confronting the Reality of Diversity
Instead of relying on artificial representations, if companies like Levi embraced hiring actual Black models, they would genuinely contribute to diversifying an industry that remains overwhelmingly white. However, by opting for AI models, Levi appears to seek accolades for efforts they have not genuinely made. Civil rights icon James Baldwin once said, "Not everything that is faced can be changed, but nothing can be changed until it is faced."
By incorporating artificially created models rather than addressing the systemic whiteness within the fashion industry, companies are essentially discarding meaningful diversity efforts. Moreover, the absence of disclaimers when using AI models is both misleading and unethical, allowing brands to project a façade of inclusivity without genuine commitment. Levi's need for a diversity consultant is evident; they require an honest evaluation of their practices and a clear strategy for improvement.
Chapter 2: The Call for Authentic Representation
In 2020, a coalition of 250 Black fashion professionals wrote to the Council of Fashion Designers of America, advocating for "equitable inroads for Black fashion talent." This letter highlighted the persistent issues of prejudice, tokenism, and discrimination within the industry, while also acknowledging the immense contributions of Black individuals to fashion's development. Despite years of advocacy, Levi's choice to feature a Black AI model signifies ongoing exclusion and the exploitation of Black imagery for profit.
In the video "INSANE: Companies Are Creating A.I. Models To 'Increase Diversity'," the discussion centers on the implications of AI models in the fashion industry and whether they truly promote diversity or merely serve as a façade.
White Women Shouldn’t Be Our Standard Of Beauty
When one type of woman becomes the archetype of beauty, it effectively marginalizes diverse representations, leading to a narrow understanding of beauty in society.